Before Spanx, There Was the S-Curve: Edwardian Fashion’s Answer to the Hourglass.
If you think modern shapewear is intense, just wait until you meet the Edwardian "health corset"—because nothing says wellness like being cinched, lifted, and tilted into a human question mark. From pigeon chests to hips that practically moonwalk backwards, the S-curve silhouette was the look of the early 1900s. So, let's dive into how Edwardian women mastered elegance.
The S-curve shaped how femininity was viewed - and worn - in the early 20th century. It’s a silhouette that tells us just as much about society as it does about style.
Spanx open-bust bodysuit: because the S-curve corset ran so we could shimmy in silence. Same mission, different century: snatch the waist, lift the bust, and pray you can sit down.
What Was the S-Curve?
Developed in response to the restrictive corsets of the late Victorian era, the S-curve silhouette emphasized a forward-thrusting bust and a dramatically arched back, pushing the hips backward. This undulating figure was achieved with the help of what was advertised as a “health corset,” a design that supposedly relieved pressure from the abdomen and supported posture (though let’s be real, it was still far from comfy).
Key features of the S-curve look included:
A pigeon-breasted bodice that projected the chest forward.
Cinched waists, slightly higher and less rigid than previous eras.
Graceful, flowing skirts with trumpet or tulip-shaped hems.
Publication Date:
1869
“Save the Women and Children with the Health Corset .” Manufactured by Thos. W. Love & Co. : 243 & 245 Hudson Street, New York City.
Oh, sure - but first, lace them into this “health corset" and gently realign their spines like a Victorian pretzel.
A "healthy" corset... Kind Of.
Designs like Dr. Warner’s “health corset” from the 19th century pushed the narrative that this was a less damaging alternative. His design used cords instead of rigid bones, added shoulder straps for support, and even had aeration holes over the bust. Considered liberating for its time, it was still restrictive by today’s standards but compared to its Victorian cousins, it was a breath of (partially laced-in) fresh air.
Can you see the S-bend silhouette? It pushed the hips back and chest forward, creating that signature Edwardian curve.
Date: 1889–91
Culture: American
Medium: cotton, metal, bone
Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The Monobosom: A Fashion Statement (Not a Medical Condition).
Another standout of Edwardian fashion was the "monobosom," a wide, padded silhouette created by low-top corsets that let the bust hang freely. The resulting shape resembled a single, undivided expanse of chest - hence the name. Its pouch-like look was a direct result of the corset’s lowered top edge.
But don’t confuse volume with exposure. Pulchritude (this word means physical beauty or attractiveness, especially of a woman. Though it has a formal or somewhat old-fashioned tone, it's often used in a literary or humorous context today), was the goal, but cleavage? Absolutely not! Even in the most daring décolletage, the natural breast shape was to remain a mystery. Edwardians preferred suggestion over revelation.
A Look from 1903: Cotton, Curves, and Quiet Elegance
This dress, which I assure you dates to around 1903, beautifully illustrates these ideals. Likely constructed from cotton, it’s modest yet structured, complete with delicate details and a soft S-curved silhouette. Designers adapted the hourglass ideal into garments like this one, balancing romantic refinement with breathable fabrics like lawn and voile.
Cleavage? In Edwardian fashion, that was a definite don't.
This dress showcases typical Edwardian details in lightweight cotton. It is modest yet structured, with delicate details and a soft silhouette. The garment reflects the era’s turn-of-the-century shift toward lighter fabrics and softened silhouettes.
*Attribution based on visible construction and style cues. (Image source unknown; shared for educational discussion only.)
