From Wigs to Waistlines: A Historical 360 (1700–1850)

We’re diving into nearly two centuries of sartorial drama, from Rococo excess to Victorian restraint. No fluff. Just facts and as much cheek as history will allow.

French Fashion of the 18th century, Rococo Period.


18th Century: Rococo Revelry

In mid-18th‑century France, aristocratic magnificence was woven into every thread. The robe à la française, with its signature sack-back and lavish panniers, became the visual equivalent of a power play

 

Robe à la française

Date: ca. 1770

Culture: French

Medium: silk

The Metropolitan Museum

Those panniers—side hoops often made of cane or whalebone—could extend skirts several feet, creating a spread fit for courtly conquest.

 

Date: English, 1750–80.

Medium: Plain woven linen and cane. Undergarment.

Place of origin: Spain

LACMA.

 

Rose Bertin, dubbed “minister of fashion” to Marie‑Antoinette, wasn't just a milliner, she shaped Versailles' image and ensured the queen's wardrobe defined the era.

Neoclassical Revolution: Empire Silhouettes

The French Revolution wasn’t just political, it was sartorial. As powdered wigs fell and guillotines rolled, fashion followed suit. By the turn of the century, Neoclassical influences from ancient Rome and Greece took over. Think high empire waists, lightweight muslin, and the so-called “chemise dress” of Regency fame. Fabric became a whisper of elegance.  

Victorian Re‑Corseting

As the 19th century marched on, the pendulum swung sharply. With Queen Victoria’s ascension in 1837 and industrial perfection, corsetry returned. This time engineered for tight control and moral posture. The silhouette grew structured: crinolines widened skirts; hourglass corsets nipped waists to dangerous degrees. Fashion became a reflection of domestic order and rigid social mores.

Why the Flip‑Flop?

  • Power & Politics: Where society loosened (Revolution), clothing followed—freedom became fabric. Where it tightened (Victorian morality), dress mirrored that grip.

  • Technological Spin: Cotton muslin and lightweight looms gave way to mass‑produced steel stays and crinoline cages.

  • Cultural Mirror: Dresses flexed alongside revolutions, regimes, and revolutions in rhetoric.

My Final Sip.

What feels like flamboyant costume was the real seat of power—or its quiet retreat. Wigs towering turned to gentle empire drapes, which gave way to steel-bound rigidity. Each style shift wasn’t whim—it was culture, tech, and politics stitched into the seams.

If you want to go deeper—say, arsenic-green silk or the politics of lining colors—drop me a line.

To watch my Video on this topic, Click Here.

Bibliography & Further Reading

  1. Aileen Ribeiro, Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe – Met Museum split on robe à la française vs anglaise fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu+7uw.pressbooks.pub+7core.ac.uk+7

  2. Fashion History Timeline (FIT) – Hoop dynamics & polonaise details in the 1770s‑80s fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu+2fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu+2fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu+2

  3. Rose Bertin – Wikipedia + academic pdfs – Her meteoric rise, court influence, and impact on aristocratic identity cristoraul.org+2avessa.com+2en.wikipedia.org+2

  4. The Boller Review, Fashion in the Regency Era – On high-waisted empire silhouettes as signs of “inconspicuous consumption” epochs-of-fashion.com+3bollerreview.tcu.edu+3en.wikipedia.org+3

  5. Silhouettes Costumes, History of Corsets – Victorian techno-corseting and the return of the hourglass silhouettescostumes.com

Raquel de la Cruz

Raquel de la Cruz is passionate about writing on art and fashion history, focusing on topics from the Medieval to Early Modern periods. She has spent most of her adult life in Italy, working with various Italian fashion houses and art museums. Raquel is fluent in three languages: English, Italian, and Spanish. From a young age, she has been designing clothes and historical costumes, honing her craft through years of experience.

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Before Spanx, There Was the S-Curve: Edwardian Fashion’s Answer to the Hourglass.